Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Even More Costumes from the Devonshire Costume Ball of 1897

Last month, I made a post about the elaborate "Marie Antoinette" costume worn by Frances Evelyn, countess of Warwick, to the extravagant Devonshire costume ball of 1897. But Frances--popularly known as Daisy--was not the only fashionable attendee to chose a figure from the world of Marie Antoinette. Here are a few of the more sumptuous, rich and glittering costumes that brought a little 18th century into the Devonshire ball.

 image: Emily Theresa, Baroness Ampthill, as the princesse de Lamballe
credit: ©V&A Lafayette Negative Archive

Emily Theresa, Baroness Ampthill, was the Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Victoria from 1885 to 1901. She chose to don the guise of the Princesse de Lamballe, the murdered friend and confidante of Marie Antoinette. Perhaps her choice was inspired by her own loyalty to her sovereign, Queen Victoria? Her costume was created by Alias of London, and was described in The Echo's report of the elaborte event as a "...brocade of blue and gold, underdress of blue satin trimmed with real Louis XV lace. Coiffure poudre, with feathers and diamonds."

image: Evelyn Elizabeth Forbes as Elisabeth Christine of Austria
credit: ©V&A Lafayette Negative Archive

Evelyn Elizabeth Forbes, later Mrs. William Dodge James, as Elisabeth Christine of Austria. Elisabeth Christine, who married Archduke Karl of Austria in 1708, was the mother of the future Maria Theresa. Evelyn's gown was described in The Court Journal as a "...costume of stiff silver tissue, through which glimmered an underdress of antique cerise taffeta. The reproduction was quite a chef-d'oeuvre; the long pointed corsage being enhanced by priceless point lace entwined with roses in palest pink; those flowers, in various sizes, were scattered over the entire toilette and gave to it a charming pre-Raphaelite effect."

 
image: Georgian Elizabeth, Countess Howe, as Queen Marie Leczinska
credit: ©V&A Lafayette Negative Archive 

Georgiana Elizabeth, Countess Howe, chose Queen Marie Leczinska, the consort of Louis XV, for her costume. Marie Leczinska, a devout Catholic, was the longest serving queen consort of France.

image: Theresa Susey Helen as Maria Theresa
credit: ©V&A Lafayette Negative Archive 

Theresa Susey Helen, Marchioness of Londonderry, chose the incomparable Maria Theresa of Austria for the ball. Her costume, described in The Queen, was a glittering marvel: "...gown of richest cream satin, copied from a picture in South Kensington Museum, beautifully embroidered in shades of gold and pearls. Stomacher of magnificent diamonds, with ropes of pearls festooned on each side. Train of rich cream acanthus leaf brocade, fastened on the left shoulder with a huge diamond buckle, and at the waist with another, and edged with thick silver cord. Necklace of pear shaped pearls, with another diamond necklace above, and a diamond crown." Theresa also wore the famous Londonderry Tiara, which used real diamonds, pearls and other jewels. 
 
The Devonshire costume ball of 1897 was a veritable "who's who" of London society in the 19th century. Ladies and gentlemen alike wanted to make a fashionable splash that would surely guarantee them a spot--and a long paragraph--in the weekly society papers. Diamonds, pearls, rich fabrics and gowns that cost a fortune were the rule--not the exception!
 
If you were transported into the elegant heights of 19th century high society, what figure would you choose for the Devonshire costume ball? 
 
 





Quick Treasure: A watercolor postcard of the Temple of Love

A picture is worth a thousand words! In the next few weeks I'll be sharing a series of Quick Treasures, such as portrait details, vintage postcard scans, and more.

Today I'd love to share one of my favorite postcards from my collection, a watercolor postcard of the Temple of Love at the Petit Trianon. I'm usually wary of the "painted" postcards that became popular in the 1930s-50s--some of them tend to have an odd traced-over look about them. But the soft, romantic feel of this particular postcard is why it is currently framed and sitting on my bookshelf.

image: my collection
 

Sunday, July 28, 2013

18th Century Treasures at the Detroit Institute of Arts



The Detroit Institute of Arts, whose priceless collection may be at risk due to Detroit's recent declaration of bankruptcy, is a veritable treasure trove for anyone with an interest in the 18th century. On any given afternoon, a visitor to one of the museum's 18th century sections can view exquisite portraits, silver beauty cases that once graced the boudoirs of fashionable ladies, and painstakingly handcrafted furniture--and that's just including the pieces that are currently on view!

Among the museum's wonderful 18th century collection are a few items that I consider especially dear to my heart--items, and this will likely not come as a surprise, with some connection to Marie Antoinette, Louis XVI, or other people from 18th century France.

image: my photograph 

A miniature bust of Louis XV, circa 1755, created in Belgium. 

This small sculpture, on loan from the National Museum of American History,  was made after a larger piece by Jean-Baptiste Lemoyne. Lemoyne was a sculptor best known for his Rococo, free-form sculpting style, which was sometimes heralded as the "downfall" of classical sculpting which had a stricter composition. Unfortunately, many of his important pieces (such as an equestrian statue of Louis XV created for a military academy) are no longer here--some were destroyed during the French Revolution, while others have simply disappeared. Although the original version of this particular bust seems to have disappeared, another sculpture of Louis XV by Lemoyne is safe in the collection of the Chateau de Versailles.

Image: © The Detroit Institute of Arts

A bronze statue of Bacchus and a Young Satyr, circa 1640, by an unknown artist. 

This sculpture of Bacchus (the Roman name for Dionysus) was purchased by Louis XIV in 1707, probably for the palace of Versailles; it passed into the collection of Louis XV and Louis XVI, where it remained until his death in 1793. Something that always crosses my mind when I see relatively small art pieces that were once housed in palaces: in the grand scheme of things, was it an important piece? Did anyone ever stop to look at it, among the many pieces of art in the many rooms of the many palaces? Or was it just another statue to gather dust until someone could be bothered to wipe it down?

Image: © The Detroit Institute of Arts

 
A portrait of Louis-Philippe, Duc d'Orleans, saluting his army on the battlefield, 1757, by Alexandre Roslin. 

Louis Philippe I, father of Philippe Égalité, became the duc d'Orleans and the First Prince of the Blood after his father's death in 1752. Although he was later known for his numerous mistresses, Louis Philippe first distinguished himself during the War of the Austrian Succession. This portrait is an excellent example of the military portraits that many high-ranking nobles would have commissioned after returning from battle. Perhaps Louis Philippe, who had by this time settled into the scandals of court life, wanted to be reminded of his glory days on the battlefield.

Image: © The Detroit Institute of Arts

Note: The identity of the sitter in this portrait has recently been disputed; it may depict Madame Henriette de France, a daughter of Louis XV; or Louise Henriette de Bourbon-Conti.

Madame Henriette de France or Louise Henriette de Bourbon-Conti as a Vestal Virgin, circa 1749, by Jean Marc Nattier. 

Louise Henriette de Bourbon was the first wife of Louis Philippe I, duc d'Orleans. Her marriage was intended to help heal the rift between the Bourbon-Condé and Orleans families--a feud which had its source in Henriette's grandmother and great-aunt, both daughters of Louis XIV and the marquise de Montespan.

In this particular painting by Nattier, Madame Henriette--in the prime of her youth, at only 23 years of age--is depicted as Vestal Virgin.

Women were often portrayed as Vestal Virgins in paintings to emphasize their morality, beauty, chastity and innocence. Royal women such was Elizabeth I, Madame Elisabeth and even Marie Antoinette were portrayed as Vestal Virgins at least once in their lifetimes. 

The choice of Henriette as a Vestal Virgin may have been seen as ironic by her contemporaries. Although Henriette's reputation before her marriage was relatively pristine--she was raised in a convent and thus far nothing had marred her image at court--her scandalous behavior quickly led to a downfall in her reputation. She was rumored to have indulged in scandalous affairs--so many, in fact, that her father-in-law was said to have contested the paternity of her children. She gave birth to three children--only two of whom, the future Philippe-Égalité and Louise Marie Thérèse Bathilde, survived infancy. She died in February of 1759 at the age of 32; her exact cause of death is unknown, but the rumor mill at court attributed her early death as a consequence of her "debaucheries."

Image: © The Detroit Institute of Arts

A marble mantel clock, circa 1784, by Jean Antoine Lepin and Etienne Martincourt.

This ornate mantel clock was ordered by Madame Adelaide and Madame Victoire de France, the remainder of the 'Mesdames,' daughters of Louis XV, for the summer reception room at the Chateau de Bellevue. Bellevue was their favorite retreat and after the ascension of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette to the throne, the aunts often retreated to their chateau, which was later said to have been one of the "hotbeds" of the anti-Antoinette gossip mill. The clock was delivered to the chateau in the summer of 1786; the two aging Mesdames would not get to enjoy their exquisite timepiece for many more summers.

Unusually, the piece was not sold in the mass government estate sales which sold off much of the collections of the royal palaces, but instead remained in the government's collections until 1808. In 1808, Napoleon gifted the clock to Jean-Jacques-Régis de Cambacérè, who in turn sold the piece in 1816 to the dowager duchesse d'Orleans. It remained in various French collections until the 1930s, when it was acquired by Anna Thomson Dodge, who gifted the item to the museum in memory of her late husband. 


Image: © The Detroit Institute of Arts

A portrait of Anne Marie Louise Nicole de Lamoignon de Malesherbes, circa 1751, by Jean Valade.

Anne Marie Louise Nicole, also known as the comtesse de Sénozan, was one of several daughters of Guillaume de Lamoignon and sister to the famous William Christian Guillaume Lamoignon-Malesherbes, who defended Louis XVI at his trial. This portrait, completed when she was about 33 years old, depicts her in a red gown trimmed with rich furs and a cascade of fine lace peeking out from her sleeves.

Anne married Jean Antoine Olivier de Sénozan in 1735; they had only one child, Antoine Francoise, who died in 1769. Antoine had one child, a daughter named Sabine, who was executed in July of 1794. 

She decided against emigration during the revolution due to her advanced age; however, she was arrested in 1793 due to her connections with former emigres and, most likely, her brother's decision to defend Louis XVI. Due to a lack of space in local prisons, she was kept under house imprisonment until April of 1794 when she was transferred elsewhere.

In May, the comtesse was brought to trial with a group of other prisoners, including the king's sister Madame Elisabeth. All were sentenced to death for "conspiracy against the Revolution." Anne Marie, along with all the other female prisoners who accompanied the princess to the scaffold, curtsied to the princess and asked to kiss her before walking up the scaffold steps. Anne Marie was 75 years old when she was executed.


image: my photograph

A bust of Louis XVI, 1796, by Robert Lazzarini. I wish I could provide more commentary but unfortunately there is not much information--and by "not much" I mean "zilch!" about this artist on the web. Still, I love seeing this bust of Louis XVI clustered with a few remnants of his family--it is currently displayed alongside the commode of Madame Elisabeth and the mantel clock of his aunts.

Image: © The Detroit Institute of Arts

A commode for the apartments of Madame Elisabeth, 1783, by Jean-Henri Riesener. This commode, or chest, was first commissioned for the apartments of Madame Elisabeth at the Chateau de Fontainebleau. It remained in the princess' collection until 1786, when it was transferred to Louis XVI's apartments at Fontainebleau. The reason for this transfer is not clear--did Madame Elisabeth tire of her furnishings? Or perhaps she was transferring her favorite pieces to her retreat at Montreuil and giving the rest to family members? 

Whatever the specific history... I must admit that this is one of my favorite pieces at the DIA. I know, I know! It's a chest of drawers. Perhaps neither Madame Elisabeth or Louis XVI ever touched it, or noticed it. (But perhaps they did!) There is just something about the simpleness of the object which is what continually draws me to it whenever I visit the Detroit Institute of Arts. All of these pieces, and so many more, feel like old (in most cases, very old!) friends who have been waiting for a visit. What a shame if they were sold off like so much junk at a yard sale.





 














Friday, July 26, 2013

Marie Antoinette and Versailles '73


I was googling today for any new tidbits or information that I could share on this blog, and I came across a review by Alison Freer of xojane.com, who took a look at Versailles '73, a documentary about a little-known, but at the time widely publicized, fashion event that helped provide funding to a Versailles in disrepair. I have never heard of this event before but it sounds like an interesting look at the clash of American and French designers in an extravagant and very 'Versailles' event. Who can resist a fashion battle at the former palace of the queen of fashion herself?



xojane:

I think it’s the combination of pure glamour and certain doom that initially hooked me on the legend of Marie Antoinette. From the glittering parties she attended to the tragedy of her lonely death, her story hit all the right buttons. So when I heard about a fashion documentary called Versailles ‘73, I was instantly intrigued. What in the hell was happening at Versailles in 1973 that could possibly be worthy of an entire documentary? And being a superfan of 1970s fashion and Marie Antoinette, how did I not already know about it?
The answer is that a LOT of self-professed fashionistas don’t know the story of what went down at Versailles in the fall of ’73. And it’s a shame, because the story to be told is one of triumph -- a great moment in time that just so happened to put American fashion firmly on the map.

In 1973, Versailles was in terrible disrepair -- plagued by leaks, termites and worms. American fashion publicist powerhouse and CFDA creator Eleanor Lambert cooked up the idea of a charity fashion show (meant to help fund repairs) featuring 5 French designers and 5 American designers, to be held at Versailles in the Royal Opera...
...Versailles '73 is a brilliant retelling of a fierce moment in time when American fashion was finally looked upon favorably. Before the show at Versailles, American sportswear was really just an afterthought in fashion circles. But from that point forward, American fashion was a in the spotlight in a HUGE way. The film is also an excellent primer on the 10 designers involved, and paints a compelling picture of the changing times of the early 1970s.

Versailles '73 is currently available on DVD and digital video. I'll definitely be giving it a look!

Monday, July 22, 2013

An engraving of the duchesse d'Angoulême

A stunning colored engraving of the duchesse d'Angoulême by Augustin Legrand.

image credit: ebay.fr

This engraving was first published in 1815, likely before or after Napoleon's "Hundred Days," in honor of the restoration of the monarchy. Indeed, many symbols of the Bourbons and the French monarchy can be found in the border of the print, in addition to Marie-Thérèse all-white ensemble. The duchesse was a particular popular topic for engravings during the Restoration--which may be because she was, amongst all of the returning Bourbons, the one most cemented in French memory as the "orphan princess of the Temple."

Saturday, July 20, 2013

An advertisement featuring Madame Elisabeth and Louis XVI

It's unusual to see anyone from the core royal family, other than Marie Antoinette (and to a lesser extent, Louis XVI) used for advertising. But this Famous Women card series, produced by Chocolat Poulain Orange, is one of the few to feature that often overlooked figure in the life of the king and queen: the king's sister, Madame Elisabeth.

image: my collection

The image is a wonderful depiction of the love and devotion Madame Elisabeth felt for her brother. As she wrote to the marquise de Bombelles in 1787: "Ah! who can take a keener interest than I in my brother's happiness?

Thursday, July 18, 2013

Illustrations of Marie Antoinette from George Washington's World by Genevieve Foster

George Washington's World by Genevieve Foster is a children's book which covers the life and times of George Washington. The book is filled with wonderful illustrations, including a number of illustrations of Marie Antoinette. Although the book's portrayal of Marie Antoinette is frustrating (there is a passage where they have her saying something akin to, "Those peasants don't know how good they have it! It's hard to be queen!"--absolutely out of character for her) the illustrations by Genevieve Foster are certainly worth a look.

(All of the following are my scans; credit goes to Genevieve Foster and Charles Scribner's Sons)






Sunday, July 14, 2013

Marie Antoinette as a Paper Doll

It may come as no surprise that Marie Antoinette, well known as the "Queen of Fashion," is a popular subject for paper dolls. The "paper doll" as we recognize it today primarily developed during the 19th century (although 18th century paper dolls, primarily made for shops and milliners to show off their wares, do exist) when paper doll sets featuring famous women such as Queen Victoria and popular ballerina dancers became the go-to choice for girls looking for some fashionable paper toys.

Marie Antoinette, as both a romantic and fashionable figure, has naturally been a popular choice for paper doll artists from the 19th century until today. I've gathered up some examples of the more interesting paper dolls based on and inspired by the famous queen of France. Let's take a look! 

In the late 19th century, paper dolls--like postcards--were also used as a form of advertising. This 1880s Marie Antoinette paper doll, produced by McLaughlin's Coffee Company, is being depicted with her hands bound, on her way to the guillotine. A rather morbid way to advertise coffee!
 
 image source: ebay

Not every 19th century apper doll of the queen was made as an dvertising ploy. This romantic paper doll was published by the Frederick A. Stokes Company as  part of the 'Famous Queens' series.
image: The Strong

The paper dolls which are considered to be the most sought-after by collecators are typically the gorgeous, detailed hand-painted dolls which were most popular in the mid-to-late 19th century. This Marie Antoinette doll set was hand-drawn and hand painted with fine detail in watercolors. The set, which was recently sold at auction, went for an amazing $2,100!

 image: Theriaults

The1938 release of MGM's Marie Antoinette, a grand costume drama on an epic scale, has also inspired a line of Marie Antoinette paper dolls. This modern paper doll set, designed by Brenda Sneathen Mattox, features full-color dresses inspired by Gilbert Adrian's sumptuous gowns.

image: Brenda Sneathen Mattox

image: Brenda Sneathen Mattox

image: Brenda Sneathen Mattox


image: Brenda Sneathen Mattox


Some modern paper doll artists decide to go with a more fanciful view of Marie Antoinette's 18th century garb. The following set designed by Barb Rausch, featuring Marie Antoinette with her "lover" (quote emphasis mine) Axel Fersen, features wonderfully detailed gowns that would like right at home in a colorful candy shop!

 image: Barb Rausch

 image: Barb Rausch 

One of the most popular--or certainly the most widely recognizable--paper dolls of Marie Antoinette come from artist Tom Tierney, whose paper doll book is filled with gorgeous gowns inspired by some of the queen's many memorable ensembles.


image: Tom Tierney

  
image: Tom Tierney

image: Tom Tierney

I'll end with a quirky--and, yes, morbid!--modern paper doll designed by artist Lisa Perrin.

image: Lisa Perrin
 













Friday, July 12, 2013

A new cover for Marie Antoinette: Princess of Versailles by Kathryn Lasky



Marie Antoinette: Princess of Versailles by Kathryn Lasky, part of Scholastic's The Royal Diaries series, is easily one of the most frequently named "gateway novels" that leads someone into an interest in Marie Antoinette, the French Revolution, or even an overall interest in history! It comes as no surprise that the book has been included in at least two of Scholastic's international "diary book" series, such as England's My Royal Story and the French Mon Histoire.



The newest 'version' of Lasky's popular historical novel is due to be released in the November of this year. Scholastic recently revived their beloved Dear America series with a new look and new books--although I've yet to see any indication that there will be new Royal Diaries books anytime soon, maybe this new release will at least put the idea on the table!


And here is the new cover, fresh from Amazon.com. What do you think? Personally, I love everything but her face... it looks too flat--almost featureless, at least to me. I do love the designs on the bottom of the image, because they give the new cover a 'royal' look without necessarily going for all the pomp and circumstance of the original series' covers. Of course, all that pomp and circumstance is what made the books stand out on the shelves for me... but we'll see how this new edition holds up once it's released!





Wednesday, July 10, 2013

'There was none so haunted as Trianon...'


 
image credit: gallica.bnf.fr 
"Thérèse had lived in many places, but there was none so haunted as Trianon, or as vibrant with memory. Its haunting was a wistful and compelling call to linger, as if the murmuring poplars and cedars entreated one to stay forever. The soul seemed drawn into an enchanted realm where time itself dallied. She breathed in the scented air. No one would ever live there for long in peace; no one could ever again make it a dwelling place, for the person who had enlivened Trianon with her own spontaneous magic was gone from the world. Trianon was no longer a home, but a tangible dream of lost happiness."
—Madame Royale by Elena Maria Vidal

This quote from Madame Royale is one that I think about a lot--it's one of those passages that really sticks to your mind long after you've finished the book. I was browsing through some vintage photographs of the Trianon and the image, of two women walking through the hamlet, immediately reminded me of this quote.

Are there any book quotes about Marie Antoinette, or the Trianon, that stick out for you? 


Sunday, July 7, 2013

A colorization of Norma Shearer as Marie Antoinette

It was a rainy, boring afternoon--the perfect time to procrastinate by coloring a photo or two. I finished this colorization of Norma Shearer that I began the other day. It's one of my favorite stills--even in black and white, it just screams "glamour!" For my colorization, I attempted to stay true to the actual color scheme of this gown, which is pink/blue/green--although I'm not sure about the real color of her her hat, feathers or hair ribbons.

image credit: my colorization; my collection

Friday, July 5, 2013

An illustration from Queen of Sorrow by Sachiko Oba


 image credit: my scan/collection

The above image is an illustration from Queen of Sorrow by Sachiko Oba, first published in 1959. Queen of Sorrow is a Japanese adaptation of Stefen Zweig's biography of Marie Antoinette, this time for younger readers. This gorgeous, somber image is one of the few color illustrations included in the book. The soft colors and lines, slightly stronger towards the queen's face and becoming softer and less defined towards the outer area of the picture, give the illustration an airy, almost dream-like feel. 

The illustration appears to have inspired another artist, the famed Makoto Takahashi, who provided the illustrations for another adaptation of Stefen Zweig's book--again called Queen of Sorrow.

image credit: bisenco

Takahashi's drawing has a much rounder, more shoujo manga style. Unfortunately, I've been unable to find a scan or larger photograph of this particular illustration. This particular biography, published in the early 1970s, is very hard to find. There have been some re-releases of Takahashi's illustrated books in recent years--I hope this trend continues with this particular volume!


I'll end with a screencap I took from the last episode of The Rose of Versailles anime adaption, which immediately reminded me of both Queen of Sorrow illustrations. All three images share some interesting similarities. All three depict the queen seated in profile, seated in front of her prison walls. All three images use color contrasts to full effect: the purple dress contrasts with the bleak, drab color of her chair and the prison walls; her hair, bleached from sorrow in all three images, adds a final, sorrowful contrast to these striking depictions of the imprisoned queen.

Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Currently Reading!


There are few things I love more than reading! Especially--and I'm sure this comes as a complete surprise--about Marie Antoinette and anything to do with her world. As you can probably tell by the Upcoming Titles sidebar, there are plenty of interesting Marie Antoinette, Louis XVI and French Revolution books being published in the 2013-2014 season. I'm always eager to get my hands on something new, which brings me to the two titles I am currently reading!


Louis XVI and the French Revolution (published by McFarland in May 2013) by Alison Johnson looks at the character and experiences of the Louis XVI, who has often been derided as the "weak king" who--depending on your point of view--failed to fully stop or fully support the revolution. Johnson's book takes a look at what we know of Louis XVI's personal reaction to the events which occured during his reign, as well as many of the experiences and actions which help shape the course of events that determined his ultimate fate.


Confessions of Marie Antoinette: a Novel (available in September 2013) by is the third chapter in Juliet Grey's Marie Antoinette trilogy. The final novel begins with the October Days and follows Marie Antoinette's final years as she, her husband nd their family are forced to contend with the changing tides of revolution. This final book is the sequel to Becoming Marie Antoinette and Days of Splendor, Days of Sorrow.

I'm eager to finish both of these titles and eventually share my thoughts on them.

What's on your currently reading list?