Showing posts with label costumes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label costumes. Show all posts

Sunday, October 25, 2015

October Offerings: Masquerade

While modern masquerades are usually reserved for Halloween, in the 18th century masquerades were much more frequent occasions. Marie Antoinette's fondness for masquerades was no small thing: her frequent appearances at Paris masquerades at first endeared her to Parisians, who became enchanted with the smiling new dauphine that contrasted to wonderfully with the decrepit Louis XV; but after she became queen, Marie Antoinette's love for donning a mask and dancing the night away began to take a more infamous turn. 

After she and her husband ascended to the throne, the propaganda wheels that had previously only caused bumps in the road began to turn in full force. Every little action by the queen, however harmless it may have been, was ripe for gossip and inflation. 

Once, the queen and her entourage were on their way--fully masked--to a ball, when the carriage broke down. It was decided that because their faces were well hidden by the masks, they would take a fiacre--otherwise known as a carriage for hire. For the queen of all France to take what amounts to a common taxi was inconceivable in French society, and perhaps nothing would have come of the situation if Marie Antoinette had kept mum. However, the queen gaily brought up the incident to others, thinking nothing of sharing what she perceived as a fun adventure. 

To the gossip mill that hounded her, however, that "fun adventure" was surely the sign of more serious transgressions. The 'fiacre' incident sparked rumors that the queen was visiting the private homes of men in secret, and that she frequently disguised herself to take private rides in fiacres with her lovers. As Madame Campan succinctly summarized: "a single instance of levity gives room for the suspicion of others." 

Despite the eventually harmful effects of a passion for masquerades on Marie Antoinette, it was not unusual for men and women--including the aristocracy--to don masks for such occasions. Masquerade balls were not the sole territory of Paris or other cities, either: masquerade balls were also held at Versailles and other stately European palaces, where the lucky invitees could rub shoulders (or at least, claim to their friends the next day that they rubbed shoulders) with royalty.

There are some gorgeous portraits of queens, empresses, and even Mesdames holding masks which can be found in various museum and private collections around the world. I've gathered a few of the more interesting portraits to share!

Maria Theresa in masquerade costume by martin van Meytens, 1744.


A portrait of a woman in costume for a ball by Maurice Quentin de La Tour, 1742. [credit: (C) RMN-Grand Palais / Agence Bulloz]

 A porrtrait of Henriette Sophie von Lüderitz by Christian Lisiewski, 18th century.

A portrait of Louise Grimaldi from the studio of Jean-Baptiste Santerre. 1712. 

 Élisabeth-Alexandrine de Bourbon-Condé by Pierre Gobert, circa 1730.

 Portrait of Mrs. William Townshend by Thomas Gibson. Circa 1730s.

 Fashion plate with masques, by Jean Florent Defraine. 1789. [credit: (C) BnF, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais / image BnF]


A portrait of people in masquerade costume by Lorenzo Tiepolo. 18th century.




A woman in masquerade costume by a French artist, 18th century. 

 A portrait of Louis XV's daughters in masquerade costume by Jean-Daniel Welper, 1758.  [credit: (C) Musée du Louvre, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais / Martine Beck-Coppola]

 A portrait of a court woman in a masquerade dress by Antoine Pesne, circa 1745.



A portrait of a woman holding a mask by Henri Millot, 18th century.



Thursday, October 3, 2013

Halloween Masquerade: Marie Antoinette Costume Ideas

The Halloween season is one of my favorite times of the year. The costumes, the decorations, the abundance of pumpkin-themed food items... October is a very season! This year, I thought it would be fun to have a weekly Halloween post--every Thursday until the big 3-1!-- to share in the fun, unique and sometimes spooky Halloween spirit. 

This week: 

Are you thinking of dressing up as Marie Antoinette this Halloween? Whether you're having trouble deciding on what to wear or you're endlessly searching for a serviceable Halloween wig that doesn't look like a bundle of fake spiderwebs, this handy little guide will point you in the right direction!


First up: Where to get your costume! 
  
If you're the crafty type, you may want to look into the following patterns:

Simplicity 3637
Butterick 3640
McCall's M6139
Butterick 4485
Simplicity 4092

If you're purchasing your dress, you will likely find yourself with limited options. Most of the commercial "Marie Antoinette" costumes are of the adult/sexy variety, while the others tend to be either very flat and difficult to work with or rather expensive for one night of Halloween fun. If you do find yourself unable to purchase a dress to your liking, my personal tip would be to jazz it up with great accessories, a great wig and other personal touches to make it sound out out from the crowd!


As for wigs: Most "Halloween ready" 18th century wigs aren't quite up to snuff, no pun intended! But this wonderful tutorial from American Duchess can help turn your so-so wig into something you can be proud of! You may also try your hand at creating your own 18th century wig using this tutorial from Ambience Chaser. If you'll be using your own hair, there are a number of great tutorials easily found by searching "Marie Antoinette hair tutorial" on Youtube. Make sure to add appropriate accessories, like flowers, feathers or an entire ship!

Now: the theme!

The heart of any Halloween costume is the theme! What, exactly, do you want to wear? Marie Antoinette was a true queen of fashion, which makes it both easy and hard to decide on your ensemble! Do you want to flit about in a gauzy chemise a la reine? Or strut your stuff down Trick 'R Treat Lane in panniers that would get you stuck in even the grandest of doorways? Or get even more creative and take your inspiration from a film, a book, or theater? The possibilities are nearly endless! Here are some ideas to get you started:

"Petit Trianon."

  
A costume inspired by the Queen's favored fashions in her private realm might be just the rustic look you're seeking this Halloween. A flouncy, soft gown with romantic sleeves in white or other soft, youthful colors will give you the look of a country Lady. A bucolic straw hat and basket of garden flowers make perfect accessories--and don't forget a wide waist ribbon in your favorite color!

"Grand Entrance."  
 


If you're looking to really make a splash, then a costume inspired by the over-the-top court dresses of the Louis XVI era will definitely fit the bill. (Though you won't have the king to foot the bill!) Remember: The wider the pannier, the closer to heaven! High hair, plenty of feathers, dashes of diamonds and other shiny jewels, and a royal blue cape will make you sparkle well after midnight.

"Masquerade.


Marie Antoinette loved masquerades, so why not add a touch of mystery to your Marie Antoinette costume? You can indulge in pretending that you're the dauphine, hiding your true identity in Paris! The beauty of the masquerade is that you can suit your costume to your mood. Feeling sleek and elegant? Look for a black or dark-colored dress that will add mystery and allure to your appearance. Feeling wild? Look for a gown exploding in colors, jewels or feathers! A mask is definitely a must, unless you want to be rushed off to your private box early on in the night!

"Modern Queen."


Maybe you're looking for something a little less historical and a little more modern--but you don't have to limit yourself to those "Sexy Marie Antoinette" costumes lining the store shelves. To give the queen a modern twist this Halloween, take a nod from enjoy the fun, modern and brilliantly gaudy costumes from David Adjmi's Marie Antoinette--which are full of pastel colors, couture silhouettes, and more snazzy buckle shoes that you can shake a stick at! 

This is, of course, just a small sampling of what you can do to dress up as the queen of France Halloween. A nearly endless source of costume inspiration can be found in the many paintings, illustrations, movies, books and plays about Marie Antoinette--the sky is the limit!

Saturday, August 3, 2013

Le costume historique: Les adieux à la reine/Farewell My Queen.

image: Le costume historique

An interesting post to share! A brief look (French text) on Le costume historique about the inaccuracy of the costumes and fashion of Benoit Jacquot's Les adieux à la reine/Farewell My Queen.

The costumes in the film were beautiful to look at, but certain aspects--such as the wig Diane Kruger can be seen wearing in the image on the left--looked like they belonged in a lower budget TV drama. With so much attention put on trying to recreate the atmosphere of Versailles, trying to "resurrect the ghost" of its final days... why overlook such an important part of its life?


Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Even More Costumes from the Devonshire Costume Ball of 1897

Last month, I made a post about the elaborate "Marie Antoinette" costume worn by Frances Evelyn, countess of Warwick, to the extravagant Devonshire costume ball of 1897. But Frances--popularly known as Daisy--was not the only fashionable attendee to chose a figure from the world of Marie Antoinette. Here are a few of the more sumptuous, rich and glittering costumes that brought a little 18th century into the Devonshire ball.

 image: Emily Theresa, Baroness Ampthill, as the princesse de Lamballe
credit: ©V&A Lafayette Negative Archive

Emily Theresa, Baroness Ampthill, was the Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Victoria from 1885 to 1901. She chose to don the guise of the Princesse de Lamballe, the murdered friend and confidante of Marie Antoinette. Perhaps her choice was inspired by her own loyalty to her sovereign, Queen Victoria? Her costume was created by Alias of London, and was described in The Echo's report of the elaborte event as a "...brocade of blue and gold, underdress of blue satin trimmed with real Louis XV lace. Coiffure poudre, with feathers and diamonds."

image: Evelyn Elizabeth Forbes as Elisabeth Christine of Austria
credit: ©V&A Lafayette Negative Archive

Evelyn Elizabeth Forbes, later Mrs. William Dodge James, as Elisabeth Christine of Austria. Elisabeth Christine, who married Archduke Karl of Austria in 1708, was the mother of the future Maria Theresa. Evelyn's gown was described in The Court Journal as a "...costume of stiff silver tissue, through which glimmered an underdress of antique cerise taffeta. The reproduction was quite a chef-d'oeuvre; the long pointed corsage being enhanced by priceless point lace entwined with roses in palest pink; those flowers, in various sizes, were scattered over the entire toilette and gave to it a charming pre-Raphaelite effect."

 
image: Georgian Elizabeth, Countess Howe, as Queen Marie Leczinska
credit: ©V&A Lafayette Negative Archive 

Georgiana Elizabeth, Countess Howe, chose Queen Marie Leczinska, the consort of Louis XV, for her costume. Marie Leczinska, a devout Catholic, was the longest serving queen consort of France.

image: Theresa Susey Helen as Maria Theresa
credit: ©V&A Lafayette Negative Archive 

Theresa Susey Helen, Marchioness of Londonderry, chose the incomparable Maria Theresa of Austria for the ball. Her costume, described in The Queen, was a glittering marvel: "...gown of richest cream satin, copied from a picture in South Kensington Museum, beautifully embroidered in shades of gold and pearls. Stomacher of magnificent diamonds, with ropes of pearls festooned on each side. Train of rich cream acanthus leaf brocade, fastened on the left shoulder with a huge diamond buckle, and at the waist with another, and edged with thick silver cord. Necklace of pear shaped pearls, with another diamond necklace above, and a diamond crown." Theresa also wore the famous Londonderry Tiara, which used real diamonds, pearls and other jewels. 
 
The Devonshire costume ball of 1897 was a veritable "who's who" of London society in the 19th century. Ladies and gentlemen alike wanted to make a fashionable splash that would surely guarantee them a spot--and a long paragraph--in the weekly society papers. Diamonds, pearls, rich fabrics and gowns that cost a fortune were the rule--not the exception!
 
If you were transported into the elegant heights of 19th century high society, what figure would you choose for the Devonshire costume ball? 
 
 





Monday, June 24, 2013

The Countess of Warwick as Marie Antoinette at the Devonshire House Ball


image: the Countess of Warwick as Marie Antoinette 
credit: ©National Portrait Gallery, London

The Devonshire House Costume Ball of 1897 was one of the most anticipated social events of 1897. For this elaborate event, the Duchess of Devonshire instructed her guests to dress in the theme of various courts--mythical and real life. And her guests wasted no time commissioning intricate, elaborate--and quite expensive--costumes from famous houses, such as the house of Worth in Paris.

To stress the importance of this magnificent affair, The London Photographic Firm of Lafayette was invited to take studio-style photographs of the guests in their costumes. Elaborate backdrops, which ran the gamut from a stylized version of the Devonshire Gardens to a Turkish setting with an antique carpet, were created especially for the event. Although some guests, not satisfied with the shots done by the studio at the event, would later return to the Firm for 'retakes.'

 
image: the Countess of Warwick as Marie Antoinette 
credit: ©V&A Lafayette Negative Archive 

The costumes chosen by the ball's guests ranged from mythical goddesses, figures from paintings, and historical kings and queens. Frances Evelyn (Daisy), the countess of Warwick, chose Marie Antoinette as her costume for his elegant and highly anticipated evening. The costume, made by Worth of Paris, was studded with real diamonds and used both gold and antique lace.

The Countess of Warwick's Marie Antoinette costume, as depicted in The Queen, July 10th, 1897
image credit: Russell Harris 
image: the Countess of Warwick as Marie Antoinette
credit: ©V&A Lafayette Negative Archive

Daisy's costume, as described by The Times July 3rd report of the event:

'... bodice and paniers of pink and gold flowered brocade and gold lace studded with silver sequins and diamonds, the square-cut neck trimmed with old lace, and chiffon sleeves divided into small puffs with gold lace sparkling with jewels; diamond rivieres were festooned across the front of the bodice. The petticoat was of white satin draped with chiffon scarves edged with gold and sequin lace. The regal train of turquoise velvet was lined with the same and embroidered all over at equal distances with raised gold fleur-de-lis, and fastened on each of the shoulders with gold cord'.

image: the Countess of Warwick as Marie Antoinette
credit: ©V&A Lafayette Negative Archive

Did you spot the photographer assistant's hand in the full-length photos?

image: the Countess of Warwick as Marie Antoinette
credit: ©V&A Lafayette Negative Archive 

Of course, the Countess of Warwick was not the only guest who chose a figure whom we can associate with Marie Antoinette. The Lafayette Archives have records of at least eight other guests who chose from among Marie Antoinette's friends, family, associates and predecessors as their costume for the night--but I'll leave those for another post!