Review: Poesie Perfumes 'In the Steps of Marie Antoinette' Collection

Review: Poesie Perfumes 'In the Steps of Marie Antoinette' Collection 

I love perfume, and over the past year I've dived headfirst into the world of indie fragrances. Poesie  has become one of my favorite indie perfume houses due to their diverse range of scents which range from

In 2019, Poesie released a special limited collection titled "In the Steps of Marie Antoinette," featuring 6 scents inspired by the queen of France. At the time the collection was released, I didn't have enough spending money to try them all--but thanks to Poesie's annual "Reissue Event," a limited-time event where you can order retired items from their catalog, I was finally able to collect all of them.


À la Reine

Scent Notes: fresh ripe tomato, cucumber, a bouquet of garden herbs, sweet soil, all damp from the summer rain

My Thoughts:

This scent is so, so green. I love that the emphasis is on the vegetable garden, rather than florals--not that there's anything wrong with florals, but I feel like most 'hameau de la reine' inspired scents I've tried before are heavy on the florals. This scent  makes me feel like I'm walking through a vegetable garden after the rain--moist garden dirt, spicy herbs, but then a vegetable sweetness from the juicy tomatoes and cucumbers. It's really amazing how this scent captures the very particular way that gardens smell after the rain... a sort of slightly sweet, slightly spicy earth tinged with vegetables and grass. 

Petit Trianon

Scent Notes: a freshly picked bouquet of wood violets, accented with jasmine sambac, tuberose and Madonna lily, sheer sandalwood

My Thoughts:

This is another scent that I picked up when the collection was originally released. I can't resist a Trianon inspired scent!  This is a very white floral scent, with hints of green underneath, but it is mostly the violets, jasmine and tuberose that stand out. The sandalwood provides a solid thread for the florals and overall the scent gives the impression of walking through a carefully cultivated garden. A very warm, floral scent. 

Rococo Paradise

Scent Notes: ripe strawberries, plush apricot, fresh grass, milk + honey, lavender sprigs

My Thoughts:

This is one of the scents I picked up last year, and it's one of my favorite scents in my collection. This scent smells it belongs in the scene from Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette where the queen and her entourage are picking strawberries and drinking fresh milk at the hameau de la reine. The milk provides a soft creaminess to the scent, which is complemented by the fresh grass and lavender. The strawberries add sweetness--it's more of a wild strawberry undertone, berries tinged with green. A naturally sweet and mellow scent overall.

Folly of Love

Scent Notes: Paradise apples, purple lilac blooms, white Bourbon roses, seductive vanilla

My Thoughts:

I didn't receive this scent until the 2020 reissue event, and truthfully I wish I had picked up a larger size! It is a very soft, summery fragrance. The lilacs and roses form nice floral base, while the apples brighten the fragrance with a touch of sweet fruitiness. The vanilla takes awhile to come out, but when it does it adds a rounded softness to the delicate fragrance. I was originally a bit worried that the florals would be overbearing, but the apple note keeps things bright and youthful.

Infamous

Scent Notes: luscious white cake layered with sticky marshmallow creme and topped with mounds of vanilla frosting

My Thoughts:

Unfortunately, this is the only scent from the collection that I did not enjoy. The reason for this is that there is barely any scent at all on my skin. It has an extremely light throw, and I genuinely have to stick my nose right up to my skin to smell anything. Even then, all I can get is a very, very faint vanilla. This is pretty unusual for this company, as while I haven't always enjoyed every scent I've gotten from Poesie, none of them have been so non-existent in terms of scent. Maybe it was an off batch!

Versailles

Scent Notes: golden cake, intoxicating orange blossom, fluffy vanilla citrus icing, blood orange

My Thoughts:

I feel like “Versailles” is what I anticipated from Infamous.  It's not an extremely strong scent, but it has a light to medium throw comparable to other “cake” scents I’ve gotten from Poesie.  This one smells like a vanilla cake smothered in delicious, luscious vanilla-orange frosting. Rich and creamy and downright yummy.

Where to Get Them

"In the Steps of Marie Antoinette" was a limited collection, so the full collection is no longer available from Poesie. However, "Versailles" was added to the Poesie General Catalog based on its popularity so it is available for ordering on the shop page here. The scent does seem to sell out fairly regularly, but it is restocked regularly as well.

May 2021: Two of the scents from this series are returning on a limited basis in 2021!

Folly of Love is available as part of the Spring Favorites collection

A La Reine will be available starting July 8th as part of the Summer Favorites

Inspired Tuesday: À La Rose from Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Inspired Tuesday: a day to share anything and everything inspired by Marie Antoinette and her world.

[image: Fragrantica]

Maison Francis Kurkdjian is a fragrance house founded in 2009 under the collaboration of the perfurmer Francis Kurkdjian and Marc Chaya, who is the co-founder and current president of Maison Francis Kurkdjian.

À la rose was inspired by the famous portrait of Marie Antoinette by Elisabeth Vigee-Lebrun which depicts the queen holding a single rose, along with Marie Antoinette's known love of roses at her Petit Trianon gardens.

À la rose's note profile features two unique rose scents: Damascena rose from Bulgaria and  Centifolia rose from Grasse, which give the perfume an interesting soft, light rose that is quite different from typical strong rose perfumes. The perfume's top notes are a touch of bergamot and orange, followed by the middle rose notes (other middle notes include violet and magnolia) with some woody cedar musky accord at the base.

The end result of this floral concoction is a rose perfume that is strikingly soft, clean, and gentle without being too overpowering or too weak.  

Since it's original release as an eau de parfum, Maison Francis Kurkdjian has expanded the À la rose line to many different scented products, including: scented body cream, body oil, scented hair mist, shower cream, and hand cream.

If you'd like to test it out without splurging on a full bottle, small samples are available through Lucky Scent.

Historiae Fragrance Review: Jardin de le Notre, Orangerie du Roy, Violette Imperiale.

Historiae is a French fragrance company that offers several fragrances inspired by French history. Their line includes scented soaps, home sprays, candles and--of course--perfumes. I previously reviewed samples of three other perfumes in their line (read here) and earlier this month I picked up three more scents from the company.

Jardin de le Notre

 Jardin de le Notre, created in partnership with the Domain of Chantilly, was created to celebrate the 400-year anniversary of Andre le Notre's birth and is described as a 'poetic ballad through Le Notre's gardens."

Like Historiae's "Hameau de la Reine," as Jardin de le Notre develops there is a sense of walking through different parts of a vast garden estate. Jardin de le Notre opens with a very light and fresh green smell, like a crisp morning grass, which slowly develops into a woodsy, musk scent with a hint of flowers somewhere in the distance. Jardin de la Notre was a bit too peppery and musky on me after a while, but if you like a heavier garden scent that isn't too flowery, it's a great option!

Head: Green leaves, Green accord, dewdrop, Tulip, pink pepper extract
Heart: Narcissus absolute, Hyacinth, water jasmine, rose, Lily of the valley, gardenia
Deep: Marine notes, musk, white cedarwood, vetiver oil, patchouli oil

 

Orangerie Du Roy

Orange blossom was one of the favored scents at the court of Versailles, and was especially favored by Louis XIV. 

Orangerie Du Roy is a celebration of the king's love for orange blossom, and combines the brightness of orange blossom with an undercurrent of heady musk. The result is what I would deem a "regal orange blossom." When I first dabbed a sample on, I was a bit disappointed because the only scent really coming through was a bright, simple orange blossom with a hint of lemon. But after a few minutes the fragrance developed into something more complex. The lingering deep notes of thyme and patchouli keep it grounded and give it a richer composition, something closer to a richer orange blossom that Louis XIV may have liked. Like Jardin de le Notre, it was a bit too much for me (the thyme does me in every time!) but if you're looking for a regal perfume that calls to mind the old court of Versailles, Orangerie du Roy will take you there!

Head: Lemon, sweet orange, petit grain, basil, Pearmint, bergamot
Heart: Orange blossom, ylang ylang, honeysuckle, lavender, thyme, mock orange
Deep: Patchouli, vetiver, oak moss, musk

Violette Imperiale

Violette Imperiale is meant to recall splendor of the Second Empire; the scent's key note, violet, was inspired by Empress Eugénie , the wife of Napoleon III, who favored the flowers.

The best way to describe Violette Imperialle would be "Royal Raspberry." I was expecting violet to be the strongest scent but to me, the note at the forefront is undeniably raspberry. What I found wonderful about this scent was its great balance of more youthful notes (fruits, vanilla) with the elegant florals. It isn't heady or musky like some perfumes with violet notes--and it's not overbearingly sweet like some gourmand perfumes. It made me think of plump red raspberries in a porcelain bowl, surrounded by iris and violet flowers, with just a hint of orange and vanilla bean in the air. It has better longevity than the other Historiae scents I've tried as well, which is another plus. I am definitely going to save my pennies and pick up a full bottle!

Head: Orange, blackcurrant, peach
Heart: Violet, iris, raspberry
Deep: Vanilla, musk, amber, vetiver, sandalwood

 

Perfumes to Channel Your Inner Marie Antoinette

Marie Antoinette loved perfumes. She not only dabbled perfumes on her person, but ordered perfumed gloves for her hands, perfumed satchets for her rooms and even her baths. Her love of fine scents was probably influenced by the fact that 18th century Versailles was a smorgasbord of smells--both wonderful and worrisome, due to the amount of people (and animals!) frequenting Versailles at any given time. To escape these overwhelming smells, Marie Antoinette not only filled her rooms with fresh blossoms, but also used perfumed products to keep herself--and her apartments--scented to her liking. She was particularly fond of floral scents, such as those which included notes of violet, rose, tuberose and orange blossom.

While none of Marie Antoinette's beloved perfumes are in production today, her influence can still be found in many modern perfumes. The following are five irresistible perfumes inspired by Marie Antoinette, her favorite scents, and her beloved Trianon retreats. Why not order some samples, dab on a luxurious scent, and imagine yourself in the company of the famous queen of France?

DSH Perfumes: Eau de Trianon

 DSH's Eau de Trianon (available as an eau de toilette and a perfume) is inspired by the notes from one of Marie Antoinette's favored perfumes created by the famous Jean-Louis Fargeon. It contains notes of rose de mai, tuberose, jasmine with additional floral, green and woodsy scents. Eau de Trianon is a soft, creamy floral with a wistfulness to it that makes me think of a solitary stroll in an open garden--elegant but still springlike and never too cloying.  

• Top Notes: Bergamot, Espirit de Fleurs d’Orange, Galbanum, Lemon
• Middle notes: Centifolia Rose Absolute, Gallica Rose Otto, Grandiflorum Jasmine, Jonquil, Moroccan Rose Absolute, Orris Concrete, Orris Root, Tuberose Absolute, Violet Leaf Absolute
• Base notes: Ambergris, Atlas Cedarwood, Siam Benzoin, Vanilla Absolute 
  

Historiae: Bouquet du Trianon

  

Historiae's Bouquet du Trianon, created by Bertrand Duchaufour, is a "bouquet" of Marie Antoinette's favored scents. Like her beloved Petit Trianon, the Bouquet du Trianon scent is a blend of various flowers and natural scents, including tuberose, rose and lemon. Bouquet du Trianon is a noticeably layered scent that is very reminiscent of a walk through an English country estate--it begins with a bright and fresh meadow-like scent, gradually blossoms into a country garden, before ending on a wispy note of natural woods.

• Top notes: lemon, bergamot, mandarin, galbanum, mint, freesia, blackcurrant bush leaf 
• Middle notes: tuberose absolute, ylang ylang, beeswax absolute, rose, honeysuckle 
• Background notes: vetiver, patchouli, amber, musk, sandalwood, cedarwood

  

 

Historiae: Hameau de la Reine

Historiae's Hameau de la Reine, also created by Bertrand Duchaufour, is described by Historiae as taking the wearer to the "heart of the Queen's Hameau." The scent includes bright green notes of tomato and fig leaf along with traditional florals like rose and peony. Hameau de la Reine truly feels like a walk through a hamlet, with a natural woodsy scent that is soft enough to let the underlying flowers to shine through like fragrant ivy climbing up a cottage.

• Top notes: bergamot, blackcurrant bud, tomato leaf, fig leaf
• Middle notes: rose, galbanum, peony, geranium, mock orange, ivy
• Background: notes: vetiver, patchouli, white wood, musk, honey 

 Lubin: Black Jade

Lubin's Black Jade comes with a colorful--if dubious--history, which can be read here for those interested. Regardless of the truth behind its origins, Black Jade is a perfume rich in extravagant florals preferred by Marie Antoinette--roses and jasmine mingle with warm vanilla and cinnamon, creating a luxurious feminine floral that is perfect for evening wear and other formal events.

• Notes: Galbanum, bergamot, cardamom, rose, jasmine, incense, cinnamon, Indian sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean, amber 

 

 L'Artisan Parfumeur: La Haie Fleurie du Hameau

L'Artisan Parfumeur's La Haie Fleurie du Hameau, created by Jean-Claude Ellena, is inspired by the flowers which bloom at Marie Antoinette's beloved hamlet. La Haie Fleurie du Hameau is a true floral bouquet which with vivid notes of jasmine and honeysuckle. The perfume is rich in floral notes but still remains light; the effect is reminiscent of a garden stroll through the Petit Trianon on a breezy spring day.

• Notes: jasmine, orange blossom, narcissus, ylang-ylang, honeysuckle, vanilla and oakmoss.

Historiae: Perfumes of History Review

There is compelling aura that surrounds perfumes inspired by historical scents or people or places--a sort of unexplainable connection that can't be obtained by looking at portraits or reading the latest biographies or even digging through archives. Even though the scents are not exact recreations of something that Marie Antoinette or Josephine may have dabbed on their wrists, the connection between the perfumes and history gives them that extra "something" which makes me want to reach for them every time a scent begins to fade. This is, of course, why I was unable to resist purchasing samples of several of Historiae's "Perfumes of History."

Historiae is known for their fair trade scented products, which include eau de toilette, scented soaps, home sprays and more. They are currently offering five scents--Rose de France, Orangerie du Roy, Violette Imperiale, Bouquet du Trainon, and Hameau de la Reine.

Of these five scents, I decided to sample Rose de France, Bouquet du Trianon and Hameau de la Reine. The picture above shows how I received them. Ordinarly, I receive perfume samples in a small nondescript vial, sometimes with a little information sheet along with my receipt. Historiae's perfumes come individually packaged, as you can see, and even the sample vials have their name and the name of the company printed in gold lettering! It may sound like I'm gushing about the packaging, but this relatively small touch leaves a great first impression! Now onto the scents:

Rose de France

Marie Antoinette adored roses and their fragrance so much that she practically filled the Petit Trianon with them. But can you ever have too much rose? I was a little worried after I read the note description that the perfume would be heavy and almost musky. However... Rose de France is surprisingly light. It is almost like a "dusting" of rose over your skin--floral and wispy instead of overbearing or cloying. It reminds me of walking through a garden sprinkled with roses... soft and inviting. A wonderful choice if you're looking for a rose perfume that isn't heavy or too intense.

Top: may rose, damascena rose, pear, bergamot, tagetes
Heart: rose absolute, magnolia, mock orange, clove, davana, peony, géranium, listea cubeba
Background: benzoin, vanilla, musc, amber

Bouquet du Trianon

Bouquet du Trianon is comprised of numerous scents that Marie Antoinette herself enjoyed--it really is a perfume "bouquet" of the scents she enjoyed at her Trianon. In a strange way, Bouquet de Trianon feels like a walk through a country estate. When I first put it on, it was very bright and citrus-y and reminded me of fresh meadow air. But as the perfume went on, the underlying notes--particularly tuberose and rose--began to emerge, and the scent was more like a well-tended country flower garden. Towards the end, just before the scent began to fade, a definite woodsy scent came into play. A great choice if you are looking for a more complex floral, natural perfume.

Top: lemon, bergamot, mandarin, galbanum, mint, freesia, blackcurrant bush leaf
Heart: tuberose absolute, ylang ylang, beeswax absolute, rose, honeysuckle
Background: vetiver, patchouli, amber, musk, sandalwood, cedarwood

Hameau de la Reine

Hameau de la Reine strives to emulate what Historiae calls "the heart of the Queen's Hameau," and I am inclined to believe that they have succeeded. The scent, although it is the lightest of the three that I sampled, is very much like stepping into a natural garden. One word to describe it would be "green." Hameau de la Reine is more leafy and woodsy than floral, but there are underlying currents of flowers that shine through--especially rose and ivy. Of the three Historiae scents I sampled, Hameau de la Reine is my favorite. It makes me feel like I'm strolling through an English garden. A wonderful choice for anyone who loves green, soft scents!

Tête: bergamot, blackcurrant bud, tomato leaf, fig leaf
Heart: rose, galbanum, peony, geranium, mock orange, ivy
Background: vetiver, patchouli, white wood, musk, honey