Unseen Versailles by Deborah Turbeville

The Halloween season is one of my favorite times of the year. The costumes, the decorations, the abundance of pumpkin-themed food items... October is a very season! This year, I thought it would be fun to have a weekly Halloween post--every Thursday until the big 3-1!-- to share in the fun, unique and sometimes spooky Halloween spirit.

This (sadly, last!) week:

 

credit: Deborah Turbeville

'"I wanted to convey that all those lives sort of went down the drain." Deborah Turbeville's Unseen Versailles, published in book format in 1981, strives to capture a sort of lost, ghostly memory of Versailles. Instead of seeking to recreate Versailles in its former glory--in fact, Turbeville was dismayed to find that the palace had been largely restored when she arrived to begin her work--Unseen Versailles is a peek at the past "buried in the walls" of the palace.

 credit: Deborah Turbeville

To achieve this affect, Turbeville photographed the palace in January, when furniture and statues were covered for protection.. She also had dead leaves and other debris brought into the rooms, adding to the sense of the forgotten or untended--which horrified the keepers of the palace, who had actually wanted Turbeville to photograph the rooms looking their best. (It's probably a good thing she decided against her idea of sneaking in a spiderweb machine!)

 credit: Deborah Turbeville

The end result of all this work, though it apparently left the keepers of Versailles aghast, is a  haunting Versailles photobook unlike any other. Unfortunately, the book is out of print and has a steep price on the secondhand market. But if you are interested in a "Versailles photobook" that is absolutely unique, I highly recommend looking for a more reasonably priced used copy or checking out the book from a library collection.

via Inviting History: Toulouse-Lautrec and La Vie Moderne Review

I've recently 're-opened' my other history blog, Inviting History, which features book reviews (and sometimes a little more) about interesting, overlooked or unique areas of history. The first book for my new launch is the lavishly illustrated Toulouse-Lautrec and La Vie Moderne.

"What did it mean to celebrate "la vie moderne" at the end of 19th century Paris? Toulouse-Lautrec and La Vie Moderne, which accompanies a traveling exhibition of the same name, seeks to explore the lives and works of numerous avant-garde artists who lived, worked and breathed the fin de siècle era."

Full review here.

The sun rising on Versailles

The sun rising on the Sun King's palace:

image: © EPV / Thomas Garnier

'Shade of Louis' by Frank Nankivell

The Halloween season is one of my favorite times of the year. The costumes, the decorations, the abundance of pumpkin-themed food items... October is a very season! This year, I thought it would be fun to have a weekly Halloween post--every Thursday until the big 3-1!-- to share in the fun, unique and sometimes spooky Halloween spirit.

This week:

Puck was a weekly humor magazine which ran from 1871 to 1918. Puck would feature caricatures, illustrations and other satire about the hot button issues of the day. The front cover of Puck would almost always feature political cartoon or illustration.

 

This 1905 cover by artist Frank Nankivell is a rather macabre satirical illustration of the 'shade' of Louis XVI warning Nicholas II of Russia. The illustration was likely referencing both the events of "Bloody Sunday" and the imprisonment of Maxim Gorky, a writer associated with Marxism who had been imprisoned in the Peter and Paul Fortress of St. Petersburg. The fortress was typically reserved for political prisoners or prisoners of high standing--giving rise for some to nickname the fortress "The Russian Bastille."

At the bottom of the illustration, the thin hands of the people can be seen pleading and holding out a petition for Nicholas II. To the top left is the warning Louis XVI has for the Russian emperor: listen to the petitioners or you are on the path towards death.

Two upcoming books about Versailles

 

A Day at Versailles by Yves Carlier with photography by Francis Hammond

Publisher: Flammarion 

Publication Date: April 2014

Description: (via Amazon.com)

The Chateau de Versailles is one of the most beautiful and fascinating achievements of eighteenth-century French art. This unique book offers readers unprecedented access to this historical treasure. The world's most iconic chateau has welcomed tourists the world over, yet this handsome slipcased volume offers up the charm of a thousand and one hidden places in the chateau, its gardens, and pavilions. All were designed to surprise and delight the eye and all the senses at every turn, their ornate decoration forming an integral part of the elite lifestyle of the eighteenth century. This comprehensive volume captures the exquisite setting and inimitable ambience of Versailles and its gardens, from its intimate private spaces usually closed to the general public to the charming Petit Trianon and dairy farm created for the pure pleasure of Marie-Antoinette.

 The Gardener of Versailles: My Life in the World's Grandest Garden by Alain Baraton

Publisher: Rizzoli Ex Libris

Publication Date: March 2014

Description (via Amazon.com)

For gardening aficionados and Francophiles, a love letter to the Versailles Palace and grounds, from the man who knows them best. In Alain Baraton's Versailles, every grove tells a story. As the gardener-in-chief, Baraton lives on its grounds, and since 1982 he has devoted his life to the gardens, orchards, and fields that were loved by France's kings and queens as much as the palace itself. His memoir captures the essence of the connection between gardeners and the earth they tend, no matter how humble or grand.

With the charm of a natural storyteller, Baraton weaves his own path as a gardener with the life of the Versailles grounds, and his role overseeing its team of eighty gardeners tending to 350,000 trees and thirty miles of walkways on 2,100 acres. He richly evokes this legendary place and the history it has witnessed but also its quieter side that he feels privileged to know. The same gardens that hosted the lavish lawn parties of Louis XIV and the momentous meeting between Marie Antoinette and the Cardinal de Rohan remain enchanted, private places where visitors try to get themselves locked in at night, lovers go looking for secluded hideaways, and elegant grandmothers secretly make cuttings to take back to their own gardens. A tremendous best seller in France, The Gardener of Versailles gives an unprecedentedly intimate view of one of the grandest places on earth.

A miniature of Maria Antonia of Naples and Sicily

 

credit: The Wallace Collection

A portrait of Maria Antonia of Naples and Sicily (14 December 1784 - 21 May 1806) by Nicolas François Dun, circa 1802 - 1806. Maria Antonia was the youngest daughter of Ferdinand of Naples and Maria Carolina of Austria; she was a granddaughter of Maria Theresa and niece to Marie Antoinette.

The Adventure of the German Student

The Halloween season is one of my favorite times of the year. The costumes, the decorations, the abundance of pumpkin-themed food items... October is a very season! This year, I thought it would be fun to have a weekly Halloween post--every Thursday excepting this one late Friday post! until the big 3-1!-- to share in the fun, unique and sometimes spooky Halloween spirit.

This week:

One of my favorite books growing up was the short horror story collection Short & Shivery, which featured retellings of ghost, monster and ghoul stories accompanied by various illustrations. One of my favorite illustrations was from a retelling of Washington Irving's The Adventure of the German Student.  The full original version of the story can be read here.

credit: my scan

"You should not be out here at this hour, exposed to the fury of such a storm. I beg you, permit me to take you to some friends."

In answer, she merely pointed to the guillotine, and shook her head. “I have no friend on earth.”

The Testament of Marie Antoinette

Marie Antoinette was brought to the scaffold of the guillotine--hated, humiliated, and condemned--in the early haze of an October afternoon in 1793. Her death, as eyewitnesses reported, was greeted with the cheers of the crowd who had come to watch her die. Her degraded reputation, which hounded her until the last moment of her death, had reduced her in the eyes of the revolutionary public to the "abominable woman," the "monster," the "infernal Fury," who found that "the vapor given off by human blood when it is spilled in great floods [was] a delectable perfume."
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The reputation of Marie Antoinette has waxed and waned since the year of her fateful death. During the Bourbon Restoration she was a saint; in the aftermath of the July Revolution, she was--albeit not a bloodsucking monster--a silly spendthrift who bankrupted her country. In the 1930s, she became a more earthly figure through the popular biography of Stefan Zweig, who took a Freudian approach to her life and behavior, famously remarking her as "an average woman." Zweig's biography helped launched many novels, films and further biographies that depicted Marie Antoinette as an outrageous party girl whose behavior was rooted in sexual fulfillment; but it also helped paved the way for further studies of Marie Antoinette as a human being.

Modern scholarship tends towards reformation of her reputation as a human being, rather viewing her through the polarizing iconography of a bloodsucking Austrian she-beast, vapid ruinous party girl, or haloed saint. Today she is still a divisive figure, although one would be hard pressed to find any serious historians who give weight to the ludicrous and vicious accusations made against her in revolutionary pamphlets.

Marie Antoinette has always been something of a symbol. Upon the accession of Louis XVI, she symbolized both the promise of a new era for France and the danger of a foreign--and feminine--influence on the throne. Louis's accession assured him the symbolic status as the father of France and the queen, likewise, took on the role of the mother.

During the economic troubles of the 1780s, she became a unsavory symbol of the vast gulf between the hardships of the poor and the lavish lifestyle of the aristocracy. During the revolution, her symbolic status as the queen mother of France degraded entirely, and the pamphlets which once criticized her for spending money on baubles were now accusing of her of planning massacres that would fill the streets with blood.

Yet even death did not stop Marie Antoinette from being used as a symbol. The Bourbon Restoration used both Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette as martyred icons; their imagery was used to instill a greater sense of solidarity between the returning Bourbons and the French people, who, if they did not remember who the 'comte de Provence' was, surely remembered the martyred king and queen--and their orphaned daughter.

And although the most outlandish of accusations routinely made against her in revolutionary rhetoric have not stuck, the image of Marie Antoinette is still used today to represent callousness, thoughtlessness, and the clueless rich speaking down to the outraged poor. "Let them eat cake!" is (perhaps irrecoverably) attached to her name, despite the fact that she did not say these words and was likely not even accused of saying them during her lifetime. But one need only search for the phrase to see numerous articles accusing various political leaders of "acting like Marie Antoinette," an insult apparently of the highest degree.

The Testament of Widow Capet, a revolutionary pamphlet published shortly after her death, ended by describing the "last testament" of the queen:

"This is the only testament that she made. The woman who trampled the unhappy people, underfoot, who reveled in wealth and pleasure, could only leave, as sole and unique legacy, two gold rings and a lock of her hair."

The life of Marie Antoinette spanned only 37 years. But her life story has endured for over two centuries--on stage, in books both fiction and biographical, on film, and in the imagination of people around the world. She has been the star of glamorous Hollywood productions and been a bit player in made-for-television mystery films. She has graced the pages of illustrious historical tomes and quaint children's picture books. She has appeared in Japanese animation and in German theater. There are Marie Antoinette Associations, websites, forums and countless spaces for those who want to discuss or debate the queen.

The story of Marie Antoinette has an unquestionable attraction that does not discriminate by age, gender, nationality or time. There is a universal appeal to the themes that define Marie Antoinette--who was an unprepared youth amidst a court of strangers, who wanted to live life on her own terms, who loved to surround herself with friends and fun, who was devoted to motherhood, who was a caring friend and loving wife, who showed immense courage and bravery in the face of unimaginable danger. And these themes have ensured her status as an enduring legend that will continue to be remembered for generations. Marie Antoinette, the queen and the woman, will continue to fascinate, inspire and connect with people around the world. Her end, tragic and unforgiving, was the beginning of an eternal legacy.

This, I believe, is her true testament.

L'Autrichienne (1990)

In my mind, there is no finer film about Marie Antoinette than L'Autrichienne. The film, which premiered in 1990, stars actress Ute Lemper as the titular "Austrian," presents an intimate, emotional look at the last days of Marie Antoinette.

As the story in the movie begins to unfold, it becomes immediately apparent that L'Autrichienne is vastly different from the majority of films about Marie Antoinette. The central focus is not on her heyday, the wild balls and pastoral pursuits; nor is it on her rise to courage in the political turmoil of the revolution. Instead, the viewer is presented with what some have called Marie Antoinette's finest, yet most pitiful hour: her trial.

The script of the film is taken almost entirely from the legal report of her trial, which adds an incredible amount of authenticity to the performances. My French is very limited, but the courtroom proceedings are so closely followed that it's possible to understand what is being said by going through the English report of her trial and matching the names and witness reports.  Historian André Castelot was one of the two writers for L'Autrichienne, and his influence is very clear to the viewer.

But the finest achievement of the film is actually the achievement of Ute Lemper: her performance as Marie Antoinette is too moving for words. She manages to compact the entire lifetime of the queen into her performance; in her portrayal there is sadness, boredom, annoyance, despair, anger, fear, hope--everything that Marie Antoinette as a woman, a wife, a mother, a queen, an accused prisoner, would have felt.

There is a particularly memorable scene in the film where Marie Antoinette retrieves a small yellow glove and a lock of hair. She presses these relics to her lips and kisses them, crying in despair. This incident comes from an actual interview with the servant Rosalie Lamorliere, where she stated that the queen would often retrieve a yellow glove worn by her son, along with a lock of his hair, and weep over them.

In her performance can be read those despairing final lines written to her children, scrawled in a prayer book: "My God, have pity on me! My eyes have no more tears to cry for you my poor children; adieu! adieu!"

It is a shame that this film is not better-known. It is currently available for viewing on YouTube, but the official DVD is out of print and can cost upwards of 100 Euros or more on the secondhand market. I hope that one day L'Autrichienne , and Ute Lemper's powerful performance, will receive the due it deserves.

'My husband said, “O God, guide us. We are too young to rule.”'

An illustration by Michael Leonard, from the Reader’s Digest Condensed version of The Queen’s Confession by Victoria Holt:

 

credit: my scan/collection

John Corigliano's The Ghosts of Versailles

The Halloween season is one of my favorite times of the year. The costumes, the decorations, the abundance of pumpkin-themed food items... October is a very season! This year, I thought it would be fun to have a weekly Halloween post--every Thursday until the big 3-1!-- to share in the fun, unique and sometimes spooky Halloween spirit. 

This week: 

The Ghosts of Versailles, an opera in two acts, took composer John Corigliano and writer William H. Hoffman roughly seven years to complete. Its initial seven-performance run, which premiered on December 19th, 1991, received mixed reviews, but the production was well-received for its lavish costumes, grand special effects, and powerful performances. In recent years, the revised edition of the opera--which removes some of the more grandiose staging of the original Met production--has become a favorite of college opera productions and smaller theaters, who may find the challenge of staging a legendary spectacle on a smaller scale.

 image: Teresa Stratas as Marie Antoinette in the original Met production

 image: Teresa Stratas as Marie Antoinette in the original Met production

The story is set in an afterlife populated by the ghosts of the court of Louis XVI. The ghosts, who have grown listless and bored, are attempting to cheer up the grieving ghost of Marie Antoinette. She is haunted by her death and cannot be stirred from her own grief. Even the arrival of the ghost of Beaumarchais, the playwright, who proclaims his love for her, does not change her mood.

 image: Beaumarchais and Marie Antoinette in the original Met production

Beaumarchais announces that he will stage an opera that will change Marie Antoinette's fate. This opera-within-an-opera, which uses characters from The Marriage of Figaro, will free the queen from her jailers and allow her to sail to America with Beaumarchais. As the opera-within-an-opera narrative unfolds, both the ghost audience and Beaumarchais find themselves in the story, and  Antoinette find herself awakening to potential feelings for the playwright. In the end, however, Marie Antoinette refuses to allow Beaumarchais to save her and accepts her fate and her death..(A thorough synopsis of the opera can be read at the US OPERA website here.)

Although the opera-within-an-opera narrative in The Ghosts of Versailles can sometimes be confusing--especially when the opera's "real" ghost characters throw themselves into the mix--it is an interesting show which is at times heartrending and, at others, downright spooky. The designs of the courtier ghosts in the original production can be quite unsettling, which lends an otherworldly air to the scenes with the actual ghosts of Versailles.

 

image: the ghosts of The Ghosts of Versailles

 

image: the ghosts of The Ghosts of Versailles 

 

image: the ghosts of The Ghosts of Versailles 

 

image: the ghosts of The Ghosts of Versailles 

The true grit of the opera, in my opinion, lies in the masterful performance by Teresa Stratas as Marie Antoinette. Horrified, grieving, angry, depressed--a powerful mixture of emotions experienced by the remnants of a woman who was torn from her world, her family and her life. The signature opera performed by Marie Antoinette in The Ghosts of Versailles is one of my favorite pieces, and it is luckily available for viewing on Youtube. 

 
I'll end this post with an expert from this emotional aria. If you would like to view the entire opera, I believe it may be on Youtube and it is also available for purchase on DVD via the Metropolitan Opera website.

I climb the stairs
Am I dreaming?
Someone wake me!
Three steps. Four.
I want to cry out,
"I am good!
I am innocent!”
Seven. Eight.
"Take care of my children!"
Nine. Ten.
"Don’t take me!
Don't take me!”
Lord, let me forget!
Grant me oblivion!

'To know that secret staircase'

Via Tiny-Librarian: 

….I was puzzling over the transparent fact that either of the apparent exits would have led her directly into the hands of the enemy, when the idea of a secret staircase suggested itself. A little judicious inquiry elicited the information that one did exist. “But it is not seen. It is locked. To view it, an order from the Commissary—that is necessary,” explained the old guide.

To know that a secret staircase, and one of such vivid historical importance, was at hand, and not to have seen it would have been too tantalising. The “Commissary” was an unknown quantity, and for a space it seemed as though our desire would be ungratified. Happily the knowledge of our interest awoke a kindly reciprocity in our guide, who, hurrying off, quickly returned with the venerable custodian of the key. A moment later, the unobtrusive panel that concealed the exit flew open at its touch, and the secret staircase, dark, narrow, and hoary with the dust of years, lay before us.

Many must have been the romantic meetings aided by those diminutive steps, but, peering into their shadows, we saw nothing but a vision of Marie Antoinette, half clad in dishevelled wrappings of petticoat and shawl, flying distracted from the vengeance of the furies through the refuge of the low-roofed stairway. 

--A Versailles Christmastide by Mary Stuart Boyd

Halloween Masquerade: Marie Antoinette Costume Ideas

The Halloween season is one of my favorite times of the year. The costumes, the decorations, the abundance of pumpkin-themed food items... October is a very season! This year, I thought it would be fun to have a weekly Halloween post--every Thursday until the big 3-1!-- to share in the fun, unique and sometimes spooky Halloween spirit. 

This week: 

Are you thinking of dressing up as Marie Antoinette this Halloween? Whether you're having trouble deciding on what to wear or you're endlessly searching for a serviceable Halloween wig that doesn't look like a bundle of fake spiderwebs, this handy little guide will point you in the right direction!

First up: Where to get your costume! 
  
If you're the crafty type, you may want to look into the following patterns:

Simplicity 3637
Butterick 3640
McCall's M6139
Butterick 4485
Simplicity 4092

If you're purchasing your dress, you will likely find yourself with limited options. Most of the commercial "Marie Antoinette" costumes are of the adult/sexy variety, while the others tend to be either very flat and difficult to work with or rather expensive for one night of Halloween fun. If you do find yourself unable to purchase a dress to your liking, my personal tip would be to jazz it up with great accessories, a great wig and other personal touches to make it sound out out from the crowd!

As for wigs: Most "Halloween ready" 18th century wigs aren't quite up to snuff, no pun intended! But this wonderful tutorial from American Duchess can help turn your so-so wig into something you can be proud of! You may also try your hand at creating your own 18th century wig using this tutorial from Ambience Chaser. If you'll be using your own hair, there are a number of great tutorials easily found by searching "Marie Antoinette hair tutorial" on Youtube. Make sure to add appropriate accessories, like flowers, feathers or an entire ship!

Now: the theme!

The heart of any Halloween costume is the theme! What, exactly, do you want to wear? Marie Antoinette was a true queen of fashion, which makes it both easy and hard to decide on your ensemble! Do you want to flit about in a gauzy chemise a la reine? Or strut your stuff down Trick 'R Treat Lane in panniers that would get you stuck in even the grandest of doorways? Or get even more creative and take your inspiration from a film, a book, or theater? The possibilities are nearly endless! Here are some ideas to get you started:

"Petit Trianon."

  

A costume inspired by the Queen's favored fashions in her private realm might be just the rustic look you're seeking this Halloween. A flouncy, soft gown with romantic sleeves in white or other soft, youthful colors will give you the look of a country Lady. A bucolic straw hat and basket of garden flowers make perfect accessories--and don't forget a wide waist ribbon in your favorite color!

"Grand Entrance."  

 

If you're looking to really make a splash, then a costume inspired by the over-the-top court dresses of the Louis XVI era will definitely fit the bill. (Though you won't have the king to foot the bill!) Remember: The wider the pannier, the closer to heaven! High hair, plenty of feathers, dashes of diamonds and other shiny jewels, and a royal blue cape will make you sparkle well after midnight.

"Masquerade." 

Marie Antoinette loved masquerades, so why not add a touch of mystery to your Marie Antoinette costume? You can indulge in pretending that you're the dauphine, hiding your true identity in Paris! The beauty of the masquerade is that you can suit your costume to your mood. Feeling sleek and elegant? Look for a black or dark-colored dress that will add mystery and allure to your appearance. Feeling wild? Look for a gown exploding in colors, jewels or feathers! A mask is definitely a must, unless you want to be rushed off to your private box early on in the night!

"Modern Queen."

Maybe you're looking for something a little less historical and a little more modern--but you don't have to limit yourself to those "Sexy Marie Antoinette" costumes lining the store shelves. To give the queen a modern twist this Halloween, take a nod from enjoy the fun, modern and brilliantly gaudy costumes from David Adjmi's Marie Antoinette--which are full of pastel colors, couture silhouettes, and more snazzy buckle shoes that you can shake a stick at! 

This is, of course, just a small sampling of what you can do to dress up as the queen of France Halloween. A nearly endless source of costume inspiration can be found in the many paintings, illustrations, movies, books and plays about Marie Antoinette--the sky is the limit!

Historiae: Perfumes of History Review

There is compelling aura that surrounds perfumes inspired by historical scents or people or places--a sort of unexplainable connection that can't be obtained by looking at portraits or reading the latest biographies or even digging through archives. Even though the scents are not exact recreations of something that Marie Antoinette or Josephine may have dabbed on their wrists, the connection between the perfumes and history gives them that extra "something" which makes me want to reach for them every time a scent begins to fade. This is, of course, why I was unable to resist purchasing samples of several of Historiae's "Perfumes of History."

Historiae is known for their fair trade scented products, which include eau de toilette, scented soaps, home sprays and more. They are currently offering five scents--Rose de France, Orangerie du Roy, Violette Imperiale, Bouquet du Trainon, and Hameau de la Reine.

Of these five scents, I decided to sample Rose de France, Bouquet du Trianon and Hameau de la Reine. The picture above shows how I received them. Ordinarly, I receive perfume samples in a small nondescript vial, sometimes with a little information sheet along with my receipt. Historiae's perfumes come individually packaged, as you can see, and even the sample vials have their name and the name of the company printed in gold lettering! It may sound like I'm gushing about the packaging, but this relatively small touch leaves a great first impression! Now onto the scents:

Rose de France

Marie Antoinette adored roses and their fragrance so much that she practically filled the Petit Trianon with them. But can you ever have too much rose? I was a little worried after I read the note description that the perfume would be heavy and almost musky. However... Rose de France is surprisingly light. It is almost like a "dusting" of rose over your skin--floral and wispy instead of overbearing or cloying. It reminds me of walking through a garden sprinkled with roses... soft and inviting. A wonderful choice if you're looking for a rose perfume that isn't heavy or too intense.

Top: may rose, damascena rose, pear, bergamot, tagetes
Heart: rose absolute, magnolia, mock orange, clove, davana, peony, géranium, listea cubeba
Background: benzoin, vanilla, musc, amber

Bouquet du Trianon

Bouquet du Trianon is comprised of numerous scents that Marie Antoinette herself enjoyed--it really is a perfume "bouquet" of the scents she enjoyed at her Trianon. In a strange way, Bouquet de Trianon feels like a walk through a country estate. When I first put it on, it was very bright and citrus-y and reminded me of fresh meadow air. But as the perfume went on, the underlying notes--particularly tuberose and rose--began to emerge, and the scent was more like a well-tended country flower garden. Towards the end, just before the scent began to fade, a definite woodsy scent came into play. A great choice if you are looking for a more complex floral, natural perfume.

Top: lemon, bergamot, mandarin, galbanum, mint, freesia, blackcurrant bush leaf
Heart: tuberose absolute, ylang ylang, beeswax absolute, rose, honeysuckle
Background: vetiver, patchouli, amber, musk, sandalwood, cedarwood

Hameau de la Reine

Hameau de la Reine strives to emulate what Historiae calls "the heart of the Queen's Hameau," and I am inclined to believe that they have succeeded. The scent, although it is the lightest of the three that I sampled, is very much like stepping into a natural garden. One word to describe it would be "green." Hameau de la Reine is more leafy and woodsy than floral, but there are underlying currents of flowers that shine through--especially rose and ivy. Of the three Historiae scents I sampled, Hameau de la Reine is my favorite. It makes me feel like I'm strolling through an English garden. A wonderful choice for anyone who loves green, soft scents!

Tête: bergamot, blackcurrant bud, tomato leaf, fig leaf
Heart: rose, galbanum, peony, geranium, mock orange, ivy
Background: vetiver, patchouli, white wood, musk, honey